With Spring Break here I took the family down to the Grand Canyon. The planning started last November when we applied for and got our permit. It was quite the chore, but we got our third choice out of three which really ended up being the best option. Our route took us down the Grandview Trail to the Cottonwood Creek Trail the first night. Then the next two nights were spent along the Tonto trail heading west till we reached the South Kaibab. From there we went down to the Colorado and checked out Phantom Ranch before heading up the Bright Angel trail to spend the night at Indian Gardens campground before hiking out the next morning.
We stopped along the way at Petrified Forest National Park as well which was well worth the couple of bucks to get in. Saw some amazing rock formations there and lots of petrified wood. Eventually we made it to the Grand Canyon and spent a day and half on the rim. We hiked down the South Kaibab to Ooh Aah point for the sunset and we were not disappointed. The views were amazing and a couple of condors flew right over us for a while. The next day we grabbed our packs, dropped off the car, and got a taxi to take us to Grandview Point to begin our backpacking trip.
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View from Grandview Point |
Starting out on the Grandview trail we began to go down. Quickly. It was pretty loose rocks held up by logs that acted as steps basically taking you straight down. There were some great views along the trail, but the going was tough if you are not sure of your footing. Eventually we lost enough elevation for the trail to level out and bend around before we reached Horseshoe Mesa. This area was exposed to the sun and very hot. There were a lot of day hikers and people hanging out having lunch. We ate lunch and I gave the family the choice of going straight off the Horseshoe Mesa and wrapping around on the Tonto to Cottonwood Creek, or taking the Cottonwood Creek trail straight down and save a few miles. They went for the less miles and we all regretted it. The Cottonwood Creek trail was hard to follow right away and we got lost almost immediately. After picking it back up we were faced with really poor trail conditions, blazing sun, and some steep drops. It was slow going for half our group, but eventually we all made it down and setup camp next to Cottonwood Creek and enjoyed the night.
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View heading down Grandview trail. |
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Huge rock along the trail. |
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View of Grapevine Canyon from Grandview trail. |
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Getting closer to Horseshoe Mesa |
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View along the Grandview Trail |
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Remains of old camp at Horseshoe Mesa |
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View from the Mesa. |
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The bottom portion of the Cottonwood Creek trail. |
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The area between the two forks of Cottonwood Creek. |
The next morning we woke up and made the short trek over to the Tonto. It was such a joy to be walking on level ground! After making it to the Tonto we enjoyed the views of the canyon and made our way to the "sketchy" part of the trail. We had read about the trail as you enter Grapevine Canyon so we knew what we were in for. In reality it's not too bad, but if you lose your footing you could be in for an adventure. But just don't trip and you're fine! Later on there was an even worse section for people with large parks. There is an overhanging ledge right on the trail which drops off right into Grapevine Canyon. With both those obstacles behind us though we made our way to Grapevine creek for lunch. By this time we had met the two other groups doing the same route as us. There was a large group of kids from college and two women who spent more time exploring off trail then on I think. They probably did double the miles we did! But it was nice to see some other people.
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View along the Tonto Trail |
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View along the Tonto Trail |
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View along the Tonto Trail |
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Some cool colorful cactus we saw. |
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The sketchy part of the trail as we enter Grapevine Canyon. |
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View from Grapevine Canyon. |
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Approaching Grapevine Creek |
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View from Grapevine Creek |
After lunch we began the trek out of Grapevine canyon. Eventually we made it to the area I thought we were supposed to camp in, but realized the next day I was one canyon off. But we ended up with a nice campsite with a great view. That night the wind started. It was only about 20-30 mph's at times, but in a tent it gets your attention. We had a great sunset and sunrise that night and managed to stay up late enough to see the stars for change!
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View leaving Grapevine Canyon |
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Large rock over trail. |
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"The Big Group" taking a break. |
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Our campsite night 2. |
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Sunset night 2. |
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Our campsite at sunset night 2. |
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Stars at night at camp night 2. |
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Sunrise day 3. |
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Sunrise day 3. |
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Sunrise day 3. |
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Obligatory boot shot at camp 2. |
The next day we woke up to pretty nice conditions and got cleaned up and started hiking on. We made it to Lonetree Canyon for lunch and our last water stop on the Tonto. Not as much water or shade here as Grapevine, but enough for us for the next 24 hours.
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View along the Tonto. |
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First view of Lonetree Creek. |
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View along the Tonto trail. |
After lunch the wind really started picking up as we headed towards Cremation Creek. By the time we made it there it was consistent 30+ mph winds. We met some rangers that suggested some better options for avoiding the wind - with the understanding there is no way to completely avoid it. So we made our way down some more tough trail into the canyon right at the edge of the new backcountry/corridor marker. They had just put up the new sign that went into affect the week after we left. Setting up the tent in the wind was an adventure but we got it up just in time because eventually the worse of the storm came through for about 5 minutes. Whatever rain fell didn't even saturate the ground and in a few minutes it was back to just crazy winds. It calmed down enough for us to get some sleep and the next day we were on our way out.
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Bones along the trail. |
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Our home in Cremation Canyon. |
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View from our tent. |
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Camp night 3. |
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Sunrise over Cremation Canyon. |
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View from the end of Cremation Canyon. |
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Leaving the (new) backcountry. |
After a short trek we finished up the Tonto and hit the South Kaibab. A highway compared to the trails we had been on so far. We made our way down to the Colorado and passed our first mule train on the way. We made our way across the black bridge and went to Phantom Ranch. After checking out the over priced store we hunted for some showers, but found only bathrooms with hand soap available to us. But that felt wonderful! After our showers we went across the Bright Angel creek and found and empty campsite and ate lunch in the creek. After lunch we started our hike up to Indian Gardens. After crossing the grey bridge on the Bright Angel trail we crossed a stream several times on our way up. It was quite a bit different from our last 3-4 days of hiking! We were surprised how quickly we made it to Indian Gardens and found one of the few empty sites available and setup camp.
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View along the Tonto. |
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View along the South Kaibab. |
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Hiking along the South Kaibab. |
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View from the South Kaibab |
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View from the South Kaibab |
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View from the South Kaibab |
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Squirrel along the South Kaibab |
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View from the South Kaibab |
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Getting close to the black bridge. |
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View from the black bridge. |
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View from the black bridge. |
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Under the black bridge. |
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Phantom Ranch |
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Helicopter over Phantom Ranch |
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Bright Angel Creek |
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Approaching the grey bridge. |
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View from the grey bridge. |
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The grey bridge. |
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View of both bridges from the Bright Angel Trail. |
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Climbing up the Bright Angel trail. |
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Deer near our campsite at Indian Gardens. |
After camp was setup I made a run out to Plateau Point for the sunset. It is an amazing view of the canyon. We had a good night sleep there and we all woke up pretty early ready to hike out. We made great time up the Bright Angel trail. It was a ton of switchbacks and with every hour more and more day hikers coming down. But we had our legs under us by this point and the end was in sight so we made quick time up to the rim. It was a short walk back to the car and we were homeward bound!
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Plateau Point sign |
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Plateau Point |
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View from Plateau Point |
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View from Plateau Point |
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View from Plateau Point |
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View from Plateau Point |
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Good sign when leaving Indian Gardens |
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View along the upper Bright Angel trail. |